It’s Oscar season, so naturally all fashionistas are scouring the red carpet for wear and the hot takes or even potential outfit inspiration. But this year, there’s a twist that’s stealing the spotlight: archival fashion is back in full force for 2024 aligned with vintage trends. However, regardless of your look of choice, you can’t deny the prevalence of archival fashion in 2024, which goes beyond being just clothing and instead embodies cultural narratives and aesthetic legacies. From tributes and recreations to adaptations and twists on classic looks, fashion icons this year brought back the Hollywood glamour we know and love all so well.
We will be going over what archival fashion is, the significance of archival by analyzing ensembles, and finishing up with the most chic looks to see how we can take a page out of celebrity stylist’s books on how to get that covetable glamour in our own closets.
The term “archival fashion” describes the practice of collecting and preserving garments, accessories, and patterns from bygone decades in the hopes of one-day reissuing or referencing them. Because they are emblematic of a time, place, or designer, these items are frequently thought of as important to history or iconic. What we call “archival style” is a manner of dress that is either directly derived from or inspired by items found in historical clothing archives. The archival materials could include garments, designs, textiles, or even preliminary sketches from different periods of style that updates classic garments by drawing inspiration from bygone eras to a modern moment.
For many reasons, archival fashion is very important. Although taking a chance on an original gown of great historical importance is unfathomable in the preservation industry, designers often pay homage to the past by reimagining famous designs. Preservation and remembrance of cultural heritage are made possible through archival fashion. By breathing new life into vintage garments and giving them modern twists, designers pay homage to the artistry, expertise, and beauty of bygone eras and cultures.
Anyone who follows the world of haute couture would have seen the obvious nod to the past in Anya Taylor-Joy’s outfit at Sunday, March 10, 96th Academy Awards. Without a doubt, her gown evoked the artistic brilliance of two legendary pieces from Christian Dior’s renowned fall-winter 1949 collection: “Venus” and “Junon.” The skirt was adorned with gorgeous shell-like silk-tulle scales, and the bodice was adorned with shimmering sequin accents. These cherished originals are critically important works of art.
This 1949 spring/summer fashion number was designed by Christian Dior himself. Since the designs are based on goddesses, this line is commonly called the “Venus” collection. The Venus dress personified the refined grace for which Dior was famous, and it was a sign of femininity and glitz. A full skirt, nipped waist, and often flowing fabrics with delicate floral motifs were all hallmarks of this dress style, which evoked the Roman goddess Venus, who was associated with love and beauty.
Another masterpiece from Dior’s collection, the Junon dress (sometimes spelled “Juno”) debuted in 1949. Juno, queen of the Roman deities, was the inspiration for the Junon gown, which was opulent and graceful. Similar to the Venus dress, the Junon dress showcased Dior’s trademark fit-and-flare silhouette; however, it frequently featured more structured components and opulent fabrics, representing strength and dominion.
The Junon and Venus dresses were crucial in establishing Christian Dior as a forward-thinking couturier and propelling his fashion house to great success. These gowns personified Dior’s aesthetic philosophy, which centered on the veneration of grace, femininity, and classic beauty. Their timeless beauty and charm have kept them relevant throughout the years, serving as inspiration for designers and enthralling fashionistas.
Held in the highest esteem as masterpieces of Dior’s work, they serve as enduring evidence of his unmatched creativity and artistry. “It’s a reinterpretation of both sister dresses,” Laura Camerlengo, curator of “Fashioning San Francisco,” told the Chronicle. “There are elements, particularly of the decorative treatments and the embellishments that are much more similar to Venus, especially the long piette sequins that you see along the edges of each petal; that sort of grayish-blue tone is much more similar to Junon. But the bodice treatment, which is rather columnar in construction, reminds me more of some of Dior’s design for fall-winter 1952-53.”
Adjusting one’s style from day to night requires a subtle finesse that encompasses more than just a wardrobe change. It involves creating a different atmosphere, considering the occasion, and uniquely expressing oneself. As the night draws near, think about enhancing your appearance with sophisticated touches like a well-fitted jacket, polished trousers or a fashionable dress, and elegant heels or dress shoes. Choosing fabrics like silk, velvet, or satin can give your evening ensemble a sophisticated touch.
For the after-party, she continued to hold an ethereal elegance in a bespoke ensemble crafted by Miss Sohee, drawing inspiration from a piece showcased in the brand’s fall/winter 2021 collection. Transforming the original design, Sohee Park reimagined it into a chic mini dress, characterized by a meticulously corseted waistline and an alluring exposed bra embellished with delicate butterfly wing motifs. The ensemble exuded an aura of ethereal elegance, with padded shoulders adorned with floral-like embellishments seamlessly flowing into attached gloves, enveloping her arms and hands in a whimsical embrace. The ensemble was elevated to celestial heights with the addition of a resplendent crystal-covered headpiece, gracefully complemented by two dangling pearl earrings which bring us to our next point.
Environmental friendliness: Archival fashion offers a greener alternative in this fast fashion era. The need for new production is reduced and waste is minimized through the process of reusing or reinterpreting existing designs. On the Vanity Fair red carpet, Sydney Sweeney sported a white gown that was instantly recognized as a nod to Angelina Jolie. The 2004 Academy Awards were Jolie’s first public appearance in the Marc Bouwer gown. A steep, plunging neckline and bare back complemented the ivory dress’s basic waist ruching. Sweeney accessorized with a Messika necklace and sash that were white in color. Hair was the most noticeable distinction between the two. Jolie wore her long hair in a half-up, half-down look, while Sweeney went for a full bob that evoked Marilyn Monroe’s style.
The high quality and careful attention to detail of historically accurate garments are well-known. By drawing inspiration from vintage items and using time-honored methods, designers can elevate the quality of their creations. For example, Jennifer Lawrence wore a beautiful white Givenchy Haute Couture gown from the famous 1996 autumn collection for the Vanity Fair Oscars. This continues a trend of wearing similar ethereal gowns. This decision carries great importance for multiple reasons. Significantly, it represents a significant moment in history, since it was the last high-end fashion collection created by the esteemed John Galliano before he left Givenchy to take on a creative role at Dior.
The creation of this famous outfit was first seen on the prestigious runway, where supermodel Kate Moss represented elegance while wearing its first version, enhanced with a delicate floral crown. The renowned Hunger Games actor, known for her contemporary elegance, infused her performance with a nuanced modern touch, deviating significantly from Moss’s ethereal runway depiction. The ensemble was beautifully enhanced with the inclusion of white stilettos provided by Manolo Blahnik, resulting in a captivating display of fashion perfection that perfectly suited Lawrence’s acclaimed reputation.
Distinct Aesthetic: Unlike today’s mass-produced clothing, archival fashion often has a unique visual appeal. By drawing inspiration from bygone eras, fashion designers give their creations more personality and distinction. In 1996, Margot Robbie made a significant impact on the fashion industry with her impressive appearance on the red carpet at the after party. Robbie wore a stunning gold corset outfit that was tightly constricted, paying tribute to Mugler’s famous 1996 fashion show. This outfit was first worn by model Chrystele Saint Louis Augustin at Paris Fashion Week. It radiated luxury and charisma, enhanced by a coordinating headdress that emphasized its royal beauty. The outfit was enhanced by the addition of shimmering pearls that flowed elegantly from the bottom, creating a captivating display that mesmerized observers and confirmed Robbie’s reputation as a fashion luminary after her Barbie press tour. By forgoing the headdress in favor of tousled curls that gracefully draped down her shoulders, Robbie added a modern touch to the ensemble. Robbie gave the bold corset a subtle twist by wearing a brown satin shawl-like cover-up over it, drawing attention away from the alluring lace-up back that only showed itself occasionally. The last touch to her attire was a pair of golden gladiator heels that she skillfully wrapped around her ankles, elevating her appearance to a level of refined flair.
Now let’s look to the most chic looks for outfit inspiration at the after-party. We must start with Keey Washington, she’s a fashion fan favorite for a reason and not just for the costume design of Scandal which I have previously covered, but for her own flair. She is great at juxtaposition and playing with design elements.
She is wearing Giambattista Valli Spring 2024 Haute Couture. This piece combines opulence, refinement, and alluring magnetism. It’s seductive through the sheer elements, but feminine through the bow and jewel adornments. Black transparent tulle skirts with enormous ruffles that are both elegant and understated are hard to come by, but it’s giving a very Carrie Bradshaw-esque appeal. It’s balanced out with tulle ruffled at the top, normally done with feathers, but this really unifies the look.
To complement this stunning attire, Kerry sported Messika jewels, which added a dash of sparkle yet sexy with the line-to-body interaction that matches the construction of the dress. To complete the look, she slipped into a pair of Christian Louboutin Maria Frou Alta shoes, adding a touch of glamour and elevating the ensemble to perfection.
Becky G had an equally classy and risque look evoking y2k tones with floor length satin skirt and a lace bralette embellished with a black ribbon were the creations of David Koma. She paired the two white garments with her black hair bow for a flirtatious and feminine look. She accessorized with rosy fresh fresh-faced makeup, a bow in the hair, and pearl earrings. What works so well with this look is the textures and contrast of the top concerning the clean stark skirt, this is just as easy to create at home and has a playful, yet mature vibe.
To recreate Becky G’s stunning red carpet ensemble at home, focus on achieving a delicate balance between sophistication and playful allure. Start by sourcing a floor-length satin skirt in a soft y2k tone, pairing it with a lace bralette in a complementary color such as white. Emphasize the bralette’s allure by adorning it with a black ribbon, echoing the chic embellishments crafted by David Koma. For your hair, opt for an elegant yet flirtatious updo or a half-up, half-down style, incorporating a black hair bow for a touch of whimsy. In terms of makeup, aim for a fresh-faced look with rosy hues, enhancing your natural beauty with subtle eyeshadow, mascara-coated lashes, and a hint of pink blush on your cheeks. Complete the ensemble with delicate pearl earrings or studs to complement the outfit’s elegance, avoiding overly flashy accessories. Pay close attention to the contrast between the lace top and satin skirt, ensuring a harmonious blend of textures. Above all, exude confidence as you showcase your interpretation of Becky G’s red carpet flair, embracing the playful yet mature vibe with grace and style.
Now last, but certainly not least, Billie Eilish. She is one to always to break the mold in the best way possible. A true creative at heart, she’s one to experiment with different styles and curate to embrace her artistic sensibility. a really androgynous chic take on the office siren trend which I covered in a previous video. I loved how she embraced her roots of the oversized streetwear in this formal look with loose tailored, a matured version that retains the integrity of her style perfectly suited to the event’s dress code.
Eilish’s fashion journey exemplifies the process of developing one’s personal style—an ongoing exploration of self-expression, experimentation, and embracing individuality. With each appearance, she continues to inspire others to fearlessly explore their own sartorial identity, proving that style knows no bounds when it comes to artistic expression.
