Lorelai aka “Rory” Leigh Gilmore is the Starry-Eyed Youth protagonist of the series Gilmore Girls who is a sweet, introverted, and studious bookworm growing up in the small town of Stars Hollow who dreams of attending Harvard and goes on to become a journalist. The show aesthetically showcases the academic and ultimate fall/winter aesthetic, Rory Gilmore’s look in particular, is enough to make anyone crave a warm cup of coffee and a good read.
From her private schoolgirl days at Chilton and cable-knit pullovers to chevron sweater vests and knee-high boots, Rory’s style has become the benchmark for the academically inclined. Over the course of the show, we as viewers watch Rory grow up. We see her mental development impact her image evolving from a picture-perfect gifted girl adored by all to a frazzled woman facing challenges drowning in her ego of untapped potential and losing her sense of identity as well as her purpose in life until she finds herself once again.
This has been such a long time request and it feels like the perfect time as it is October, there is a chill in the air, and we are breaking out our Autumn/Winter wardrobes. I’ve also seen so many people gaining inspiration from the Gilmore Girls aesthetic which is perfect for the season, so I’m very excited to be covering it with you! This brings me to the hot topic of today’s article- Rory’s downfall which is such a delicate matter. Often on TV and in film, the downfall is very stylized and romanticized to visually narrate the story to us as an audience. For example, Effy from the hit show SKINS is depicted as mysterious, fun, cool, and sexy yet is struggling with her mental health, and her looks are a part of this journey as she cannot hide what she is going through as things take a turn for the worst.
For another example, Beth Harmon in The Queen’s Gambit spirals out of control behind closed doors. She dances around, does her makeup, and experiments with her style, but when she goes out she likes to be put together and put her best face forward even if she doesn’t feel her best. These two examples are very relatable to many but are heightened to convey the visual narrative. Rory’s downfall doesn’t have a single look to pinpoint and it’s why it is so open to interpretation. There isn’t a scene of her walking through Stars Hollow in a Harvard sweatshirt and sweats with ice cream under her arm. She wears the same coat, reuses the same backpack, and has very slight variations to her look. So to begin let’s look at the Gilmore Girl’s aesthetic and delve into Rory’s style evolution in relation to her mental state.
Rory’s style may be defined as ‘light academia’ which is the visual antithesis of “Dark Academia.” The aesthetic of is derived from a passion for learning, creativity, and literature as style is a form of self-expression as well as a signifier of identity. Rory’s life revolves around academic pursuits. Light Academia tangibly depicts the archetypal student who dedicates themselves wholeheartedly to their studies, and values individuality as expressed through the quest for knowledge and devotion to the arts. Think crisp yet sunny autumn days, early mornings at museums, late nights at coffee shops, and rain gently tapping on the of a library.
The fashion tends to be a mix of ease and refinement, a collegiate look with an air of elegance that could seamlessly transition from a lecture hall or library to a meeting or dinner.
Neutral and low-saturation color palettes are utilized and Colors like brown and tan are staples, blazers, button-downs, cardigans, sweater vests, cigarette trousers, mini skirts, overcoats, uniforms, boots, mary janes, headbands, ribbons, watches, leather belts, caps, knee high socks. Patterns and materials include leather, tartan, knit, argyle, cashmere, plaids, linen, silk, and gingham.
Light Academia, like its darker sibling, draws heavily from Post-Punk artistic sensibilities. This particularly applies to the genre’s more lively aspect, which laid the foundation for following musical breakthroughs such as indie rock, Light Classical, dream pop, and shoegaze. It gives it that chip on the shoulder that is very much in tune with Lorali as opposed to aesthetics such as preppy and old money which we see with Rory’s grandparents. Throughout the show, we see Rory dip her toes in the water of both aesthetics and Every autumn we see this resurgence, but obviously, this is a bit of an older show so is executed through late 90s and early 2000s tones.
We see this more in the earlier seasons with low-rise denim, the famous cable knit sweater, tees over long sleeves, and eclectic color combinations that can be found across various 90s media such as subdued colors and even subtly grunge elements. the aesthetic values, as style is self-expression, promote hope, potential, companionship, inspiration, and joy. It’s very suitable for a bookish teenager, we see this style become more elevated from the first to the third season. Rory tends to wear uniforms, which reflect the ethics and beliefs of the organization that issued them. She takes on the morals and values as a pillar in her mind. As well as helping to mask economic differences, dressing similarly to others may foster a sense of camaraderie. Students won’t be able to “competitively dress” to draw attention to themselves, which should ease tensions and redirect focus. As a result, there will be a decrease in antisocial conduct and an increase in academic focus among the youth.
This gradual progression of her look makes her more realistic, we can see she is very influenced by the events with her school and family. She still has a very warm, yet serious tone that develops nice codes of dress-like go-to outfit combinations such as high boots with a skirt to fall back on, consistent silhouettes, and a more defined color palette. The sweaters are becoming more embracive, but don’t show the body too much which reflects Rory’s personality well of kind of looking down on girls who are done up, but not being too girly herself. Very, “I’m so beautiful without any effort I don’t need to try,” but we can see does try just behind closed doors. For instance, she does her makeup in contrast to Paris who is a bit messy. The contrast here is quite nice, Paris openly works very hard and has her flaws more at the forefront while Rory tends to romanticize her look with this light academia aesthetic, no blood sweat, and tears will be seen.
It also has a bit of a quirky streak which is perfect for Rory because even though she is a very academically driven girl, she also deeply admires her mother who has this gorgeous vintage eclectic style.
Speaking of, Rory in a sense has one foot in two different worlds. the realm of her mother, characterized by its warmth, uplifting literature, films, music, good food, and a down-to-earth yet charming small town; and the realm of her grandparents, where values such as perfectionism, opulence, prosperity, and ambition take precedence. She carries the weight of the expectations her mother left behind with her grandparents and is constantly adored for her natural gifts as well as her dedicated nature by her chosen family of Stars Hollow.
Rory is an alumnus and privileged when it suits her, but also a small-town girl when the situation calls for it. It’s more than how she runs to her grandparents when having a tiff with her mother, so much of it is evident in her own image and how she carries and expresses herself. She wants to be the self-made independent woman like her mother who she adores, but also quite enjoys the silver spoon from time to time. We even see in Logan’s business meeting, how offended she is when Bobby states how reading is a luxury- which it is to have the time and access to it. Education is very powerful, it’s one of the many reasons I love doing these videos because I understand not everyone has the time, access, and resources to learn about these topics. I feel so fortunate that I have this luxury But in Rory’s head, this is such a pivotal part of who she is and was always commended for it.
When you grow up like Rory and are constantly praised, you learn to create a framework of thinking that leaves no room for error, but people make mistakes. Even we as viewers, I see so often we romanticize and admire Rory earlier in the same way people in her world do. It’s well deserved. They see her Harvard, Princeton, and Yale acceptances, the extracurriculars, her cute boyfriend, the outfits she sports around, her makeup and hair perfectly done without the reality, labor, and stress necessary to acquire that lifestyle and image.
Even with this light academia aesthetic, it turns away from the shadows, unlike dark academica for this romanticized version of what it means to be and look successful. While everyone else sees the bright girl with an even brighter future,
she is grappling with a side of herself she can’t express. Rory is often treated like a second chance to correct what went “wrong” with Loerali and with Lorali she often has to step up and take on a more mature role in their relationship.
In terms of Erik Erikson’s Stages Of Psychosocial Development, Rory’s downfall is at stage 5. During each stage, the individual will grow according to their success and develop the virtue of the stage. If you fail the stage you move forward with a lower ability to complete other stages resulting in a lower sense of self and unhealthy personality. This isn’t to say if you have a downfall like Rory, you can’t come back from it, she struggles with the virtue of fidelity. In Stage 5. Identity Vs. Role Confusion. So in a nutshell, the big question is “Who am I” This period of development occurs between 12 and 18 when teenagers go through a period of self-discovery and experimenting with autonomy. Consequences if not resolved result in a poor sense of self, low confidence, mental health struggles, and commitment issues. If we look at Rory’s childhood we can see why she matured backwards into adulthood.
We see so much of stylistic choices. Fashion is an extension of identity and so often in youth people experiment with their looks and it’s a coming-of-age moment.
For example, Lane dyes her hair as a teenager and it’s a huge deal. It means so much to her, and experimenting with her looks is a part of her coming into herself. Establishing who she is and even though she dyes her hair back to not upset her mother, in her head it’s dyed. This is so much like how people with healthy relationships to their self-image. They go, I want to dye my hair, try a new makeup look, shop at a new place.
There has been a change in image out of growth, but when Rory dyes her hair she is essentially having this crisis, a drastic change of hair in duress may signify four various psychological states: trying to regain control through an instant change in state, avoidance of an issue by altering the person facing it, the desire for reinvention to become someone new, or a wish to enhance self-esteem. We see this internal struggle surface, like when she chops her long hair into a bob providing her an air of maturity that was at odds with the reckless choices she was making.
Season 4 style is where her looks become quite scattered, she’s transitioning from maybe styling outfits together a few times a week to every day after the uniform and is entering a new chapter of her life. It was the end of the doe-eyed, sweet girl stage and her looks were rather immature. She’s clinging to who she is and the praise she is so accustomed to, but also She has the look and style, but not necessarily the substance to back it. Perhaps making too much of an effort, eliciting puzzled stares. Into 5, she does become more refined and upscale. She’s beginning to spend more time on hair and makeup again, she’s in a new relationship and trying to make the dream she and her mother have looked to her entire life. She’s grasping at tries piecing together her look. Preppier pieces are coming more into play now as well as some business casual in tune with her aspirations, but we also see very girly and feminine looks for her every day and not just dinners or events.
So instead of exploring and experimenting in youth, she was always the disciplined overachiever who didn’t have to try too hard, the smart one, the pristine girl who just is adored. Her change in image often mirrors her internal emotional state because we as people have our own self-concept and we want this confirmed in the eyes of others. Rory lives for this feedback loop.
The creation of a personal identity is a fundamental concept in Erikson’s theory of psychosocial growth. The self-awareness we get by engaging with others is always changing and growing as we acquire knowledge and mature through these connections.
Rory’s exposure to how the world functions was sugarcoated by the fact that she lived in a community that functioned like a huge extended family and that she always had a safety net with her grandparents. She can very naturally adapt to these two identities, which is normal for people who grow up in two cultures, but she lives in between these two worlds and never fully develops a full-fledged sense of self and the skills to cope with adversities that combat her worldview. Excessive praise in childhood psychologically can lead to an unhealthy dependency on external validation as an adult. Eventually, this can lead to burnout, damaged relationships, lower educational or professional drive, and overall quality of life.
It’s why upon receiving criticism that she doesn’t have that special “it” factor, it’s the straw that breaks the camel’s back after being rejected by the boy when used to being chased, unable to be top of the class when she was valedictorian, missing her mother just shatters her reality. So much of Rory’s style, taste in films, her favorite foods, and the music she enjoys have been passed down from her mother or her grandparents. Her train of thought is going, “If this isn’t true, then that’s not true and if that’s not true then this isn’t true.” She had already had every preconceived notion about herself disproved upon entering college, and now that last shred of confidence had been shattered as well. The feedback looks broken. She didn’t know who she was anymore and I feel like in the following scene where she is on stage we see a bit of the Rory Gilmore we know and love, but Richard in that moment realizes how Rory thrives and functions off of praise. It’s a heartbreaking moment.
She no longer has that light academia aesthetic and charm, she is drifting going maybe I will follow in my grandmother’s footsteps, and maybe I can be girlfriend. Even Jess reads her like a book and speaks out on this. Her clothing choices in the beginning half of Season 6 reveal how disoriented she is. As she searches for direction in life, her costume design looks terribly costume-like which was so genius of The outfit isn’t picture-perfect as she hoped. Some even looked as if they were plucked from Emily’s closet the way she would with Lorali. Following, we see the return of her acdemia aesthetic at Yale very New England college girl of the ’00s into season 7 with those codes of dress making an appearance once again, but in a new form. Her outfits are far more coordinated,
Even though she looks nicely put together and not influenced too anything or anyone, but almost reminiscent of her mother as they reestablish their relationship and Rory matures finally getting past that downfall and making the transition into adulthood on a mental level. Rory at the end of the original series meets her goal which is really only the beginning of her securing a position reporting on Barack Obama’s presidential campaign and the series ends full circle with Loreli and Rory sharing a meal together at Luke.
l feel what is really great about the writing and development of these characters is how realistic and nuanced they are. It’s not a fairy tale tied together with a bow, it really digs deep especially for the time it aired and how it still stands today.
I don’t feel Rory is only a cautionary story about falling from grace; because everyone falls here and there and not everyone has everything well and done, figured out at an early age. She emphasizes the value of fidelity, appreciating life around you, and embracing every moment. Respecting your preferences and working for what really matters in life. Learn resilience by means of experiencing setbacks and rising beyond them. A gifted child failing can be one of the most silent falls because they don’t look like their suffering. Not people’s penchant for bending their own likenesses into whatever shape they feel pressured to become, but how important it is to know yourself, and not be afraid to come into yourself even if it takes longer or is difficult at times. To not pay for your future with your past. To evolve inside and out. To honor all the stages of life with open arms no matter how you looked during them.
