French designer Yves Saint Laurent is widely considered one of the 20th century’s most influential figures in the fashion industry. As one of the most influential and celebrated designers of all time, he earned many early titles—from boy wonder to genius—that have stuck with him. He was truly ahead of his time and instrumental in developing the fashion industry into what it is today. From his first collection, designed for Christian Dior when he was just 21, to his groundbreaking work in the fashion industry and at the house of Saint Laurent—marrying art to fashion and creating the modern wardrobe, championing diversity on the runway, and reconfiguring womenswear—these are all aspects of his legacy that I will discuss in this video.
Famously he once said, “Fashions fade, style is eternal.” His concepts and beliefs translated into his garments have transformed the contents of the modern wardrobe in terms of style and continuing to shape fashion for all through the inherent breadth of style vision, again and again, that is carried on through his legacy. “He was like Picasso,” said Valerie Steele, director and chief curator of The Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology. “The way he kept transforming his style, yet each new one had an incredible impact on fashion.”
A deep predilection for the fields of art and fashion has been evident in the designer ever since his childhood. The person, who was born in 1936 in Oran, Algeria, showed an early proclivity for reading books and magazines about fashion and the arts, creating paper dolls, and sewing for their mother and two younger siblings.
At 18, he uprooted and moved to Paris so that he could focus on his studies and pursue his own interests. The same year, she also won first place in the dress category of an International Wool Secretariat competition, judged by the likes of Hubert de Givenchy and Christian Dior.
While living in Paris, Yves Saint Laurent met Michel Brunhoff, the esteemed editor of French Vogue, and the two struck up a professional relationship. Saint Laurent was put in touch with Christian Dior, a powerful figure in the fashion industry whose namesake label was widely admired both inside and outside the fashion world, thanks to this introduction. Because of Laurent’s exceptional work, Dior quickly hired him as an assistant, allowing him to devote his formative years to developing his artistic abilities.
Saint Laurent met Christian Dior after he showed sketches to Michel De Brunhoff, the esteemed editor of French Vogue. Dior was a well-known designer whose label was recognized far beyond the fashion industry. Laurent was quickly promoted to the position of assistant because Dior was so impressed by his work. Because of this break, he was able to devote his formative years to honing his artistic abilities.
The formative experiences he gained at Dior were reflected in his upbeat and revitalized demeanor when he returned to the company. The person’s body of work began developing and receiving recognition. The designer has said that his time spent working closely with Dior taught him the basics of his craft, highlighting the lasting influence of that mentor.
Following the passing of his predecessor in 1957, he assumed the role of creative director and proceeded to unveil the highly acclaimed trapeze line for the spring of 1958. The designer opted for a more fluid silhouette that required less fabric, deviating from his customary and distinctive feminine style that accentuates the waist. The individual drew inspiration from the prevailing streetwear trends observed in everyday life, and endeavored to refine and harmonize entire ensembles.
Due to a lack of alignment between his innovative artistic perspective and the traditional stylistic principles upheld by Dior, the individual in question, alongside his business partner Pierre Berge, embarked on the establishment of their own eponymous fashion brand in the year 1961.
The fashion house not only presented innovative clothing choices, but also introduced a groundbreaking methodology for women’s attire that seamlessly combined elements of style, modernity, sophistication, and cohesiveness, while simultaneously maintaining an air of informality and ease.
“Chanel gave women freedom. Yves Saint Laurent (YSL) gave them power.”
While it is true that women had previously worn suits and trousers, it was through Chanel’s contributions that these garments gained popularity. However, Yves Saint Laurent’s suit design was particularly noteworthy as it challenged traditional gender boundaries by incorporating elements of both men’s and women’s fashion, resulting in an androgynous aesthetic. The Reefer Jacket was introduced by him in 1962, followed by the Sheer Blouse in 1966, and the Jumpsuit in 1968. One of the most notable designs presented by the designer was Le Smoking, which made its debut in 1966. The act of women wearing trousers in public was met with controversy due to prevailing societal norms. However, the individual in question successfully demonstrated their ability to seamlessly incorporate elements of menswear into womenswear, effectively catering to the needs and preferences of women.
During this period, the garment in question embodied characteristics of rebellion, perseverance, glamor, androgyny, and beauty, offering a unique embrace to the body that differed from other forms of clothing. The introduction of this particular style revolutionized the concept of eveningwear, quickly establishing itself as a timeless and iconic aesthetic. During an interview with The Observer in 1977, the individual expressed their desire for women to possess an equivalent foundational collection of clothing items as men. The attire consists of a blazer, trousers, and a suit. These objects exhibit a high degree of functionality. I held the belief that women desired this and were justified in doing so. Prominent figures and influential individuals who were among the early adopters of this particular aesthetic included Bianca Jagger, Catherine Deneuve, and Lauren Bacall. The muse, Betty, is a subject of interest.
The aforementioned trend persisted throughout the designer’s work, as they skillfully transformed various traditionally functional masculine garments, including the peacoat, trench coat, jumpsuit, and safari jacket, to suit the female form. This adaptation successfully preserved the original essence of these pieces, while seamlessly integrating elements of grace, simplicity, elegance, and the aforementioned practicality required for a well-rounded wardrobe.
Historically, utilitarian masculine garments have been characterized by a harmonious integration of grace, simplicity, elegance, and the aforementioned practical elements essential for a comprehensive wardrobe.
The designer combined his early exposure to art with his deep admiration and respect for the work of other artists. Yves and his partner shared a passion for collecting, and their collection included works as diverse as a Piacasso painting and Egyptian statues. He was also deeply moved by the artistic excellence of films and performers from other countries. This helped him add color, not just black and white, to his artwork. Through his costume designs, he was able to share his enthusiasm for motion pictures with others and make a significant impact on both fashion and film. The Pink Panther, Moment to Moment, Arabesque, La Chamade, La Sirène du Mississippi, Max et les Ferrailleurs, Stavisky, and Subway all feature costumes designed by Yves Saint Laurent.
Because of his love of art and curiosity about the world, he was able to take cultural cues from the celebrations of Morocco, India, China, Spain, Russia, and Turkey.
He was ahead of his time in incorporating art into his designs and having those designs shown in museums and galleries. His collections included pieces influenced by artists such as Picasso, Van Gogh, Matisse, Warhol, and others. In 1965, the Mondrian collection became famous for its shift dresses in the style of the 1960s, which paid homage to the artist’s modernist spirit as captured in his geometric grid paintings.
Yves Saint Laurent began using organza blouses and see-through tops in his collections in the late 1960s, during the height of the sexual revolution and feminist movements. Multiple designers, including Yves Saint Laurent, who introduced sheer looks that exposed the chest in the late 1960s, contributed to the gradual unveiling of the female body within fashion. By 1968, he went with completely transparent fabrics, stating, “Nothing is more beautiful than a naked body.” Rather than being an exhibitionist act, it was done in a manner to assert equality and empower women. US Vogue’s Hamish Bowles on this stated, “[He] gave his pan-generational clients an unparalleled assurance and an insouciant panache—sex appeal without vulgarity,” Though risque, his work was appreciated and aided in reforging womenswear.
Yves met his famous inspiration Betty Catroux, who he saw as a physical representation of the cultural mood at the time. She had already developed a penchant for men’s clothing and found that she was most comfortable being herself in it before they met. She never worked for him, but she was a source of inspiration for him and his fashion projects up until his passing in 2008. The individual wanted to do something fun for fun. The people in question clearly shared a strong connection, as evidenced by the fact that they spent a large portion of their free time together.
The braless models were met with widespread disapproval, as numerous publications declined to feature the designs during that period. However, his work has subsequently gained widespread acceptance and garnered significant acclaim. The fashion house continues to create designs that draw inspiration from these looks, which are currently showcased on contemporary runways.
During the period spanning the 1960s to the 1970s, the designer not only revolutionized the fashion industry by altering the garments showcased on the runway, but also played a pivotal role in fostering inclusivity by pioneering the practice of casting a more diverse range of models. This innovative approach marked a significant departure from prevailing norms and contributed to the increased representation of women from various backgrounds within the fashion realm. His muses include models such as Iman Katoucha Miane and Dalma Callado. In his influential capacity, he advocated for the promotion of diversity and facilitated the creation of opportunities for exemplary role models. In 1978, Mounia made history by participating in the Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture show, thereby becoming the inaugural Black model to grace the prestigious couture runways.He facilitated Naomi Campbell’s historic achievement as the inaugural black model to grace the cover of Vogue Paris, responding to the news that she had been denied access to this opportunity. Subsequently, a multitude of models of color showcased their talents on his runways and in his campaigns.
While the popularity of ready-to-wear fashion remains high today, it is worth noting that in September 1966, the aforementioned designer became the pioneering couturier to establish a boutique exclusively dedicated to ready-to-wear garments. Instead of producing less expensive iterations of his high-end fashion designs, he adopted an alternative strategy to develop cost-effective garments for his customer base. The individual made the decision to utilize the location as a platform for conducting experiments with novel concepts, resulting in the establishment of distinct and independent collections. In this context, the individual aimed to cater to a specific group of younger females by providing reasonably priced items that incorporated elements of youth culture and exuded a youthful essence.
He was producing mass-produced items that exhibited an equivalent level of creativity and style as his haute couture designs. Subsequently, all prominent fashion houses emulated this practice after a considerable span of time. He played a significant role in the advancement of accessible fashion and the expansive global fashion industry as we know it today, with a total of 38 stores worldwide. Although his work was often deemed scandalous during the 1960s and 70s, he made significant contributions to the fashion industry during the latter half of the 20th century.
During the 1980s, the designer expressed a shift in focus away from sensationalism and innovation, instead prioritizing the refinement of his stylistic approach. The individual persisted in refining their distinctive works and advancing their conceptual ideas to unprecedented levels. The enduring legacy of Yves Saint Laurent is evident in the influential aesthetic he established for both men and women. His creative vision has served as a template that subsequent designers have faithfully adhered to, while also infusing their own artistic interpretations. By revitalizing and adapting his concepts, garments, and style to suit the contemporary world, these successors have effectively preserved and perpetuated his artistic heritage.
The enduring impact of his influence extends beyond his fashion house, permeating the entire industry and transcending the boundaries of the fashion market. His elegant and innovative style not only produced aesthetically pleasing garments but also encouraged a shift in societal attitudes towards clothing, redefining fashion norms and establishing timeless standards of style.
SOURCES: Yves Saint Laurent: He Changed Women – https://us.france.fr/en/paris/article/yves-saint-laurent-he-changed-women Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008) – https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/news-analysis/yves-saint-laurent-1936-2008-2 Yves Saint Laurent: How One Man Changed the Way All Women Dress – https://brightside.me/inspiration-girls-stuff/yves-saint-laurent-how-one-man-changed-the-way-all-women-dress-794816/ Musée Yves Saint Laurent Paris Inaugural Display – https://museeyslparis.com/en/exhibitions/musee-yves-saint-laurent-paris Interview Clips from Yves Saint Laurent Documentary which can be watched here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D94alIvRtXI
