Fashion is not always experienced on a physical, and external level, but also on an emotional and internal one. There is also an innate sense of comfort in art and fashion that possesses elements of art that provide a space for belonging in the world through knowledge, understanding, and acceptance that shapes the visual narrative of life. In the words of Ralph Lauren, “I don’t design clothes. I design dreams.” Clothing and its presentation is a creative expression that is produced by a designer’s creative vision and passed to another through a nonverbal dialogue with much meaning, symbolism, and purpose within each piece. Fashion is a universal language that affiliates people, which is an engrained need as it is natural within human nature to long to emotionally align with one another.
At times this is very much needed for individual expression and community. Fashion provides a medium that can embrace people or alleviate cultural anxieties, hence providing a safe haven for those who connect with it through aesthetics of unity that shape the individual and collective cultural personality through subjective interpretations. To understand how fashion designers from the past and present shape your life and look as well as an understanding of fashion as an art along with why people are drawn to certain aesthetics, the origins of these concepts, and how these shape our style and lives we will be looking into the semiotics of fashion.
This is the study of fashion and how people signify specific social and cultural positions through dress. It holds a symbolic and nonverbal communicative role that holds the capacity to express meanings through aesthetics, design, and symbolism. This is not only applied to garments but also to fashion brands along with other channels of fashion communications such as publications, influencers, etc. Just as societal standards change due to time and cultural values the perceived meanings of clothing change, but the fundamental meaning at its core formed at its origin will remain unaltered.
Motivation on an individual level behind fashion can be semiotically broken down into four categories. Fashion as function for example protection, fashion is status that relates to symbols, fashion as personal values which is where personal style is developed through self-expression, and fashion as socialization which is acceptance or not.
Fashion is a form of non-verbal communication, hence rhetorical meanings are interlaced into the design because of its artistry. There is an inherent emotional response to visual arts and commercial stimuli. This is understood through Neuroaesthetics which is a field of experimental science that combines (neuro-)psychological research with aesthetics by investigating the “perception, production, and response to art, as well as interactions with objects and scenes that evoke an intense feeling often of pleasure.” -Due to the impact on brain wave patterns and emotions, this is due to regions of the brain being activated by intense aesthetic responses. Fashion -in the tangible sense is a visual form therefore take part in this due to the elements of art. Clothing is a means of self-expression and a way to tangibly depict concepts, rather than just leaving the garments or ideals.
As Raf Simons states, “There is a very different kind of psychology going on in the fashion scene than in art.” In his own work, he stated, “ I don’t want to show clothes, I want to show my attitude, my past, present, and future. I use memories and future visions and try to place them in today’s world.”
So by the act of not just wearing, but experiencing fashion, there is an impact on your mind and well-being. In the same way that music, film, paintings, etc can produce feelings of hope, comfort, and security- fashion also provides this on not only a physical but also a mental level as well. Clothing can be very motivational, a sartorial visual therapy that can aid in establishing purpose, personality, and concentration. Enjoying fashion does not always mean physical garments, but also the creative skills and meanings behind fashion.
In regards to the world’s narratives, fashion is often deemed frivolous, but its social scope can capture an era and be a marker of societal change aside from it’s aesthetic, physical, and visual offerings. The fashion industry has shaped society and helped propel movements forward within areas such as power distribution, identity, sexuality, and social or cultural debates.
Although recognition is needed to refute this claim, there are times when fashion challenges cultural anxieties- Fashion possesses elements of Art and art can change a person’s outlook and the way they experience the world, usually when something contradicts this people will generally have bad responses as it challenges their world view. Mass outrage and backlash may occur as a differing style holding alternate roots grows in popularity and begins to be adopted into mainstream media and culture despite the well-meaning and intent.
The context and original meaning is often lost in translation when it departs from the origin- people take it through their own perception, hence it may create tension and produce a threat to traditional values along with the beauty or fashion standards of a cultural era.
This is often when looks in fashion are considered to be extreme and are often demonized or blame is cast onto someone in order to be able to pinpoint the issue, despite the issue not rightfully being placed. For example, Kate Moss and the Heroin Chic era.
This same narrative around Kate Moss who is a visual opposition to the glamazons of the eighters is the same fire underwent by Twiggy who’s fame opposed the ideal full traditionally feminine figure of the 50s. As German philosopher Walter Benjamin stated, “Fashion is the eternal return of the new.” Trend cycles often come back with direct opposition over a period of time due to the rejection of previous ideals and a need for new visual offerings that will better align with the cultural climate. This is why what is usually opposed begins to be embraced.
This is often when the industry is viewed in a more shallow, vain, or frivolous way due to stylized visuals that aren’t always easily digestible to the general public due to a lack of acceptance on a social level since it disturbs what is traditionally coveted.
Typically high fashion is quite ahead, we see trends from the runway appear in next year’s personal style.
There are times when personal preference does not align with what is “IN” as fashion is often very personal due to personal style development and the connections one may form within this journey of finding what they likes. It is important to be open and understanding to still appreciate, respect, and see value in these moments as there is so much history, work, time, and people behind fashion.
Designers create a long-lasting impact that forms a safe haven through their clothing while giving through innovative fashion that is not only visually captivating but also emotionally as well. This contributes new imagery, ways of dress, and messages to the world that shape people’s lives.
These designers go on to live in the hearts of many, they shape the look of people’s lives even if people are unaware of the designer. Their work both conceptually and physically goes on to be timeless with a lasting impact, come about in new ways, and exist in new forms as we take visual cues by integrating these concepts, garments, and looks into our style.
Historical influences are not just inspirations to designers but to all people. Art is meaningful and fashion at times is a very powerful art form for us, even those who designed it long ago still dress us today. Those who create fashion imagery are capturing an era in a still moment or sharing a message in a beautiful manner that has been elevated to elaborate on topics visually. This is accomplished in many ways as beauty is subjective.
The cultural effect of fashion being produced in this state is that it has the power to destabilize many regulations and ideals of dress which allowed for new market growth while following the precedent of very influential high fashion designers down to the common market. Designers provoking cultural norms often pave a path in a time where it might be difficult for people to speak out, be themselves, or have someone to connect to. This is conceptual and lives on through the real lives of people.
Collections can be more time-oriented though and are a commentary of the current social climate. As Miuccia Prada states, “What interests me most is when a work of art is no longer just an object but also touches reality and life. I want to make clothes that are beautiful of course, but also clothes that are interesting and considered and intelligent and not out of place.”
In the spirit of the times, there are a lot of cultural anxieties that cloud people’s minds and quote-unquote normal fashion has altered to suit the needs of people. This doesn’t mean fashion has come to a halt, but that it has adapted to provide differing meanings than what is typically thought of. Many dress differently and the images of fashion in the present times do still hold much power designers are contributing to the conversation of the world we live in while providing clothing and words of wisdom to get us through these times.
For instance, Celine women’s Winter 21 Titled “Parade” was inspired by three French decadent, libertine poets whose words of the excess pain of misspent youth are applicable today. Specifically, these lines are noted for the collection. Paul Verlaine, wrote “Her gaze is like the gaze of statues”; Arthur Rimbaud, who penned, “I alone have the key to this savage parade”. Charles Baudelaire, said, “My youth has been nothing but a tenebrous storm, peered now and then by rays of brilliant sunshine”; Designer Hedi Slimane has taken the state the world is in today and translated this poetry into the garments, atmosphere, and emotions of the collection.
It’s a very chic collection that combats traditional standards through a balancing act of elements and codes of dress. Something that is very much needed and sought after now since fashion is taken differently at this point in time. Overall the collection is stylish in appearance as the image of the Celine woman is but, with laid-back undertones that are almost mellow but still aware and hopeful. This puts the themes of the words of the poets into practice, relating it back to those who view the collection through the emotions and messages of the garments.
With fashion containing many visual languages, the symbolism and meanings are easily misconstrued due to the multiple perceptions of the subject, but when received well fashion is a place of refuge or security where one can express themselves and feel a place of community or belonging. Each person will be drawn to an aesthetic or a few to suit their dimensions as an individual and by default connect with others visually who also covet, sport, enjoy, and appreciate fashion, especially in times of crisis fashion can bring us together on a larger scale while providing relief through visuals that can align with one’s dream of who you are, where you are going, where you belong, and what we identify with in terms of aesthetics.
SOURCES: Neuroaesthetics- https://www.sciencedirect.com/science…. Undressing the Power of Fashion- https://digitalcommons.bucknell.edu/c… Semiotics of Fashion- https://www.digitalfashionacademy.com… From the Closet to the Catwalk- https://www.fitnyc.edu/museum/exhibit… Celine Fall/Winter 2021 Poetry- https://www.fashionotography.com/celi…
