The Neon Demon is a psychological horror film helmed by Nicolas Winding Refn, which centers around the narrative of Jesse, a young woman aspiring to become a model. Jesse’s meteoric rise in the fashion industry leads to a profound metamorphosis, as she transitions from a naively innocent individual to a personification of vanity. This transformation occurs within an alternate reality fixated on beauty and characterized by fierce competition, where Jesse encounters literal adversaries who are willing to resort to ruthless tactics. The film, however, is primarily intended to be experienced rather than superficially understood, as it encompasses a depth that surpasses initial impressions. The characters engage in minimal verbal exchanges, opting instead for psychoanalytically crafted visuals to convey their messages. In this context, the visual elements hold greater significance and convey more meaning than spoken language.
The film uses a very fabricated realm with stereotypes of the fashion industry as a backdrop for characters who serve as vehicles to explore very played-up vanity and tropes and the concept of beauty.
Despite being perceived as a superficial element within the film, fashion assumes a significant role in this dark, fabricated world that prioritizes appearance over substance and challenges notions of perception and personal values. Paradoxically, it also conveys profound symbolism to the audience, owing to the intricate craftsmanship, artistic expression, profound meanings, and conceptual underpinnings embedded within each garment. Consequently, fashion in this film serves as a conduit for conveying additional information with every shot.
The significance of fashion and beauty lies in their ability to function as indicators of societal norms and aspirations, while also serving as a means of self-expression. The composition of numerous scenes is aesthetically pleasing or deliberately unsettling, with equal significance placed on the visual details as well as the attire worn by the characters. In order to achieve the visually striking aesthetics that are prominent aspects of the film, close collaboration between the costume designer, production designer, and cinematographer is crucial. Their collective efforts are focused on ensuring that each element complements and elevates the others, ultimately enhancing the overall cinematic experience.
The cinematography employed in the film aims to captivate viewers through the use of stylized color and visually striking compositions. Each shot is carefully edited to align with a euphoric soundtrack, resulting in an immersive experience that elicits a diverse range of emotional responses.The director aimed to create a horror film centered on women, deviating from his previous works that predominantly focused on narratives driven by masculinity. Instead, he delves into a narrative that explores a woman’s experience in relation to the pervasive obsession with beauty, thereby reflecting the cultural preoccupation that is encountered to varying extents by individuals.
Costumes play a pivotal role in the narrative of any film, particularly in a film that places significant emphasis on aesthetics and the theme of obsession in connection with beauty. The visual representation of each character in this film effectively conveys the narrative in a distinctive manner. The fashion portrayed in this horror film serves as more than a mere reflection of each character’s personality. It contributes an element of darkness, even in scenes set during daylight or lighter moments, thereby generating an intangible weightiness that is intricate in nature. This pervasive atmosphere is palpable to all characters, despite the absence of traditionally “scary” attire. In this analysis, I will deconstruct the fashion choices of the characters by examining the designer garments they don and elucidating the underlying significance behind these choices.
It is crucial to acknowledge that every character in this context serves as a visual metaphor representing a specific form of beauty or a role associated with creation. Consequently, their fashion choices not only serve as a tangible representation of their individuality but also reflect the significant psychological pressures they experience as a result of the sociological influence of beauty within society. Despite being fictional and dramatized, the characters in question frequently possess genuine human qualities that are used against them, such as their age, cosmetic enhancements, or life experiences. Instead of allowing these aspects to be embraced, they are subjected to shame. In the film, each character undergoes a moment of shame regarding their self-identity and pursuit of beauty, influenced by societal expectations and judgments pertaining to their appearance and fashion choices, despite their initial sense of pride.
Costume designer Erin Benach states about the high fashion in the film, “We knew from the start that we needed to find clothing that could carry a story on its own. Not only to show Jesse’s evolution as a character but also to depict the world we wanted to depict, which is sort of this alternate reality.”
The film immerses the viewers in a dramatically intensified realm through its surreal opening sequence, which showcases Jesse during her inaugural photoshoot, elegantly positioned on a sofa within a set inspired by Emporio Armani’s spring 2015 collection. The composition of the shot was strategically designed to encapsulate the overarching theme of the entire film within a singular visual representation. The inclusion of reflective elements in the set design holds significant importance, as reflection serves as a key element in the symbolism and storytelling. Additionally, the deliberate use of contrasting cold and warm tones serves as a visual indicator of Jesse’s evolution from an innocent and naive individual to a representation of societal ideals surrounding beauty, encompassing vanity, sociological implications, and sexual undertones.
The director articulates that beauty possesses dual characteristics, as it can be perceived as superficial and devoid of significance, while simultaneously possessing a profound and intricate nature that engages with philosophical and cognitive aspects. The application of makeup in this particular scene establishes a precedent for the portrayal of distortion, hardness, menace, and artifice surrounding the subject. This is achieved through the deliberate contrast between Jesse’s naturally pale complexion and the utilization of bright rhinestones, highly saturated tones, and simulated blood.
In the initial sequences of the film, Jesse’s appearance was characterized by relaxed and flowing attire, predominantly consisting of garments from the Ulla Johnson brand. Ulla Johnson is renowned for its vibrant and bohemian fashion staples, which exhibit a feminine aesthetic influenced by both the bustling city of New York and serene vacation destinations. During this particular time frame, Jesse’s aesthetic approach exhibits extensive coverage and a distinct ethereal quality, resulting in her appearance having an otherworldly quality that contrasts with the darkness or aligns with the brightness of the surroundings, thereby enhancing her radiance throughout the film. Jesse’s fashion aesthetic prominently emphasizes qualities of innocence, sweetness, and an overall sense of naturalness, as evidenced by the incorporation of various garments such as maxi dresses, peasant tops, and lace-adorned skirts. These pieces predominantly feature delicate floral patterns, chiffon fabrics, and a color palette consisting of whites and soft pastels. Regarding the film and its components, From a psychological standpoint, pastel colors evoke a sense of tranquility, as they are intended to be gentle, delicate, and appealing. This aligns with Jesse’s initial demeanor, which stands in contrast to the other female characters in the film who opt for darker hues and bolder fashion choices right from the beginning.
The film centers its attention on three additional female characters who exhibit a mode of attire that corresponds to their individualized notions of beauty and their respective roles within the context of beauty. Sarah can be characterized as an aging model who is gradually becoming less relevant in the industry. Her attire at the club consists of an adorned mini dress accompanied by an opulent fur accessory and understated jewelry. This ensemble exudes a sense of glamour that she clings onto, perhaps as a means of preserving her former allure. The character Gigi, who is portrayed as the bionic woman, symbolizes the concept of artificial beauty. Her attire is characterized by its vibrant and audacious design, incorporating structural elements that prominently feature angular shapes. In contrast to the other girls, Ruby’s appearance exudes a heightened level of professionalism, characterized by her choice of attire that is both refined and avant-garde. Notably, her role centers around the creation of beauty, a pursuit that she approaches with a delicate yet intense demeanor, in stark contrast to the others who perceive beauty as merely an end in itself.
Like other characters in the film, such as photographers, these characters exhibit a fashion and style that is less ornate and more utilitarian, as their role is that of creators rather than subjects of attention. The absence of dialogue in the film enhances the significance of its physical aspect, particularly in the subtle yet meaningful movements that occur during moments of artistic creation, where beauty and the creator intersect. The interaction facilitates a heightened emotional responsiveness from both individuals involved, encompassing a diverse spectrum of feelings. The individuals involved in the production of this film, including designers, photographers, and artists, exhibit a profound fascination with Jesse due to the prevailing notion that in this particular realm, authentic beauty holds the utmost value. It is not merely an aspect of importance, but rather the singular element that reigns supreme. Within the context of this cinematic production, the concept of beauty is portrayed as a multifaceted attribute, rather than being confined to a singular appearance. The character named Jesse possesses a certain intangible quality, commonly referred to as “je ne sais quoi,” which sets her apart from the other characters in the film. Consequently, her peers experience feelings of envy towards her, as they all strive to ascend the hierarchical ladder of beauty, widely perceived as the ultimate measure of achievement within this particular world.
Jesse’s lack of guilt impedes her progress, prompting her to embark on a journey of self-acceptance that surpasses her previous experiences. During the gold photoshoot, Jesse is immersed in the color gold, which is psychologically associated with notions of success, accomplishment, and victory. The darker hues are commonly linked to notions of prosperity, opulence, ample resources, esteemed status, and inherent worth. In this context, the individual in question continues to maintain a sense of naivety, yet remains invigorated despite experiencing uncertainty at present.
During the casting call scene, the models are attired in undergarments that are equally as delicate as their movements and placements while traversing the scene. The portrayal of the setting effectively communicates a sense of intense rivalry and vulnerability, while also highlighting Sarah’s increasing contempt towards Jesse, who captivates the designer in a manner that eludes Sarah. The individual departs from the setting while adorned in a predominantly black ensemble, creating a notable contrast with the brightly illuminated room and the previously worn nude attire. This change in appearance signifies their growing awareness that their professional trajectory is approaching its conclusion, unless they are able to meet the required standards.
At this juncture, the individual in question is confronted with the realization that she is gradually losing relevance in the perception of others, resulting in a decline in her standing within the abstract framework of beauty hierarchy. In contrast, Gigi, on the other hand, is exempt from the necessity of attending casting sessions and possesses the agency to select her preferred attire for the fashion show. However, Jesse consistently receives preferential treatment from external sources, despite being a newcomer among models who have been in the industry longer than her. This situation, instead of fostering confidence, actually reinforces her growing ego and lays the groundwork for potential narcissistic tendencies in the future.
During this period, Jesse experiences personal growth and surpasses her previous limitations. She immerses herself in the captivating realm of beauty showcased on the runway, which enables her to recognize her inherent abilities and perceive how others perceive her. The individual in question has undergone a transformation, transitioning from a state of sweet innocence to a heightened self-awareness, particularly in terms of her physicality. This evolution is visually represented by her choice of attire for her inaugural appearance on the runway, namely the Giles gown adorned with Swarovski crystals. Swarovski is widely recognized for producing glass crystals of exceptional quality, which possess hardness, brilliance, and fire that closely resemble those found in natural diamonds. The aforementioned fabricated lustrous garment envelops the entirety of her physique, with the exception of the facial region. According to the costume designer, the selection was made with the intention of augmenting the theatrical effects of the lighting in connection with Jesse, while also ensuring that the dress fully enveloped her entire body, thereby encompassing her entire essence. While certain individuals may perceive an individual’s strong attachment to a particular garment as a trivial matter, it is important to acknowledge that this specific piece holds significant emotional significance for Jesse.
In order to achieve Jesse’s major looks, Benach collaborated with the production designer and cinematographer to ascertain the most suitable color palettes for each scene, taking into consideration the specific setting and lighting conditions. This particular scene holds significant importance, as the alternating lights transition from a red hue to a blue hue, symbolizing the protagonist’s transformation and detachment from her previous identity, succumbing to her ego.
The depicted visuals serve as a narrative device, illustrating the protagonist’s immersion within a novel environment and her subsequent surrender to the allure of the neon demon. Jesse undergoes a significant transformation, transitioning from an aspiring young woman with dreams of financial success through modeling to a self-aware and introspective model who yearns for a deeper purpose and recognizes her intrinsic worth. Jesse has gained the ability to perceive the same visual stimuli as others, as evidenced by the contrasting appearances of the other models who appear unkempt, while Jesse’s appearance is meticulously arranged. Towards the conclusion of the runway, Gigi redirects her attention towards Jesse. Although seemingly insignificant in terms of character development, this particular moment serves to augment the latent tension and horror that permeate the film.
Following the conclusion of the show, Jesse, noticeably transformed by her own physical attractiveness and self-perception, accompanies Dean to a bar frequented by the designer and other models. Jesse makes a striking entrance, showcasing a transformed appearance that signifies a departure from her previous identity. As she assumes the role of a fierce and edgy model, her makeup takes on a glacial quality, effectively eliminating the inherent softness of her facial features. The resulting effect is a captivating and glamorous visage, characterized by a profound sense of coldness.
The utilization of makeup in the film played a significant role in effectively communicating notions of beauty, excellence, and diverse perspectives on aesthetic appeal. The makeup artist, Erin Ayanian, drew inspiration from the aesthetic of the 1970s. Ayanian further explains that she sought influence from the photographic works of prominent fashion photographers Guy Bourdin and Chris von Wangenheim during that era. The author asserts that their work exhibits a vibrant visual quality that harmonizes effectively with Nic Refn’s artistic sensibilities. Gigi consistently adorns herself with elaborate and glamorous aesthetics, whereas Sarah’s style is characterized by a more edgy and angular appearance. In light of Jesse’s recent transformation in terms of internal disposition and grooming choices, it is noteworthy that she has also curated a new collection of clothing to align with her updated aesthetic.
Jesse is adorned in a gold halter top from the Saint Laurent Spring 2015 ready-to-wear collection, paired with form-fitting leather pants and Christian Louboutin stilettos. The costume designer on this look states “For that, I was inspired by Hedi Slimane’s spring 2015 collection for Saint Laurent, “He’d done this ‘70s line and I knew that was where I wanted Jesse to end up in terms of her look.” “I thought it was so rocker and so different from everything else that was coming out on the runway at the time,” says Benach. “I had this idea that Elle [would transform] into something like that ad campaign. There was just this ’70s glam, but with a hard edge, that I thought was awesome. It doesn’t feel like a straight-up runway piece, it feels more like clothing.” This is crucial to note because the other models all constantly have a very high designer end look that look, but Jesse continues to be elevated in a differing way that is unattainable yet down to earth. The significance of Jesse’s resemblance to an ad campaign is very relevant as ad campaigns sell not only a product, but lifestyle, values, and imagery that one may align themselves with from the designer. It visually confirms how Jesse possesses this it factor that others long for.
The assortment exhibits a pronounced rock and roll Los Angeles-inspired aesthetic, intended to convey a sense of novelty and youthfulness, while also incorporating a more explicit essence that imparts a perilous quality to each individual item. The assortment catered to Jesse’s altered disposition and encapsulated her newfound self-assurance as she abandoned the more subdued appearances in favor of a style that complemented her evolved demeanor.
Jesse consistently showcases garments from this collection, exhibiting a discernible influence and garnering significant admiration. This serves as a clear indication to fellow models and fashion-savvy observers that she possesses the most current and desirable fashion trends. By visually verifying her substantial achievements. Despite the film’s fictional setting, the costume designer aimed to depict certain elements of the modeling industry with greater accuracy. The inclusion of this element enhanced the authenticity of the presentation and created a visual ambiguity between the realms of horror and reality, as exemplified by the fashion choices of the models. Frequently, when it pertained to the moments of relaxation involving the models, the costume designer would seek inspiration from Abbey Lee Kershaw, a renowned Australian model, actress, and musician. In fact, Kershaw has been bestowed with the title of a supermodel by V magazine and is recognized as an esteemed figure within the industry. Frequently seeking input regarding appropriate attire for girls during fittings, lunch outings, or social gatherings added a heightened sense of drama to the scene, as it aimed to create an authentic appearance while unfolding in a theatrical manner.
In the concluding sequence of the film, Sarah and Gigi partake in a futuristic photo shoot, donning Marina Hoermanseder’s avant-garde sculptural attire, characterized by its sharp edges and captivating leather bindings. The final scene was crafted subsequent to the observation of the various elements, with the intention of integrating the visual aesthetics into the film. The origins of the climactic sequence can be traced back to the fashion choices, which were characterized by their restrictive, disconcerting, and confining nature, mirroring the discomforting conclusion of the film.
According to existing research, there is evidence to suggest that the phenomenon known as “Enclothed Cognition” posits that the garments we choose to wear can exert influence over various aspects of our behavior, attitudes, personality traits, mood states, levels of confidence, and even our interpersonal interactions. The nature of this relationship is inherently intricate due to the subjective nature of individual perceptions and experiences. Consequently, even when artistic works are presented in a similar manner, individuals will inevitably encounter distinct emotional responses. For example, Gigi is characterized as possessing exceptional physical beauty. Despite her achievements, she experiences difficulties in recognizing her own worth. Consequently, her choice of clothing reflects her vulnerable emotional state, symbolizing her confinement. On the other hand, Sarah demonstrates a lack of concern for others’ positions of success, instead prioritizing her personal endeavors to attain and maintain her position in society. Accordingly, her clothing serves as a form of protective armor, enabling her to navigate the world with resilience.
It is evident that Gigi is currently undergoing a sense of remorse, while Sarah appears to exhibit a relatively indifferent attitude.
Similar to the attire worn by the characters at the conclusion, the film serves as a reflection of societal significance by narrating the impact of pursuing beauty on individuals, shaping and limiting their lives. The intended meaning of the text is not to be understood in a literal sense, as it allows for various interpretations and often employs metaphorical language.
From my perspective, there appears to be a discrepancy between the outward attractiveness and the inner turmoil experienced by individuals who are consumed by their pursuit of beauty. The characters in the narrative are collectively endeavoring to ascend the hierarchical ladder of beauty, yet it is important to acknowledge that this pursuit is inherently subjective and ultimately unattainable. Despite outward appearances, Jesse is actually a young woman who is emotionally detached from herself and constantly yearning for more, despite her perceived success. This can be attributed to her unhealthy fixation on beauty and the impact it has on her ego. It is worth noting that this internal struggle is compounded by external pressures and influences.
The film “The Neon Demon” serves as a visual representation of the pervasive influence and subjugation exerted by societal standards of beauty, particularly upon individuals of the female gender. This film exhibits explicit and startling content, accompanied by captivating visual elements. The emotional turmoil, unspoken yet coercive rivalry, and societal expectations depicted in the film resonate with real-life experiences, particularly for women who face varying degrees of credibility and recognition based on their physical appearance. Numerous empirical investigations and anecdotal evidence attest to the significant impact of individuals’ physical appearance on their likelihood of achieving success, commanding authority, inspiring trust, being perceived as intelligent, and being deemed suitable for various domains of life. Regardless of whether one is a model or not, there is evidence to suggest that individuals who prioritize their appearance through personal grooming and attire tend to have a higher likelihood of earning a higher income. This finding holds true across various professions.
Due to the nature of her physical attractiveness, she is incapable of coping with the consequences of her actions.
Beauty and fashion are frequently characterized as superficial, narcissistic, and inconsequential; however, they possess significant worth and impact in shaping an individual’s self-image, fostering acceptance, and influencing external perceptions. The utilization of fashion in the film served as an extension of the characters, enhancing the overall cinematic experience and contributing additional layers of depth to a visually-driven narrative. Fashion in reality possesses the ability to deceive and carefully construct an appearance with intention. It enables individuals to express their true selves and attain their desired aesthetic. Additionally, fashion can serve as a tangible manifestation of one’s inner identity, projecting it to the external world regardless of location or purpose.
Elle Fanning’s The Neon Demon Costumes- https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/elle-fannings-neon-demon-costumes-905386
Feeling Beauty: The Neuroscience of Aesthetic Experience – https://www.amazon.com/Feeling-Beauty-Neuroscience-Aesthetic-Experience/dp/0262527448
Psychology of Beauty- https://psychology.wikia.org/wiki/Beauty
Neon Demon Costumes- https://www.racked.com/2016/6/24/12023694/neon-demon-costumes
